Major talent has stepped into big shoes at this road-trip-worthy restaurant in Loudoun County, where Vincent Badiee replaced Tarver King last November, following Kings news that he planned to open a place of his own in the area. Dressed with lemon juice, sumac and turmeric, its the best chopped salad in town. While every other chef in town is pushing chicken, Deboy invites us to try pheasant brined in lemon, onion and bay leaf and better for passing over a charcoal grill before you slice in. No menu until after youve eaten. [Expect a warm welcome and dazzling dishes at Kinship in Shaw]. Is it still good?, [Three Blacksmiths invites more to the table]. Going into Amy Brandweins warmhearted osteria and market, I always know I can count on seeing a few regulars. The meat, carved into two chunks, rests on a whip of turnips and alongside carrot coins ignited with harissa. The owner says hes doing one thing right. My current fascinations include crisp spring rolls bursting with shrimp, pork, wood ear mushrooms and taro root a truly filling filling a strapping stew of sweet potato noodles, sour mustard and squiggles of pork, and (new to the lineup) cumin lamb skewers. It takes skill and good timing to achieve jjolmyeon with the desired chewiness. No barriers to entry, although theres a slight incline at the entrance; ADA-compliant restroom. Then he brought aboard Matt Adler, a veteran of Osteria Morini who told him he knew exactly the place Babin wanted: a comforting restaurant like the one Adlers father ran in Upstate New York. Takeout, no delivery. A: Tom Sietsema My go-to crab cake at the moment is at the relocated Johnny's Half Shell in Adams Morgan. Indoor seating only. 107 N. Fayette Street, Alexandria, Va. LOGAN CIRCLEThe foot of a neon-green Holiday Inn is home to the first Johnny Rockets D.C. has seen in years. Indoor seating only. Indoor and outdoor seating. Proof of vaccination required for indoor dining. Long and clattery, the dining room is warmed up with vintage accents and young servers who look after you like good neighbors. Ability to work as a team, but also the desire to learn and advance. Theres a reason Henrys, which also has a catering arm and a second, lesser branch in Oxon Hill sells about 100,000 sweet potato pies a year. Proof of vaccination required for indoor dining. The deeper your dive on the menu, though, the more competition the tacos get for your taste buds. Consecutive doors at entrance; ADA-compliant restroom. The lightest bouillabaisse around is a few Gulf shrimp and a crisp square of red snapper lapped with a tomato-colored sauce that tastes of the sea and is best mopped with the buttery pullman toast on the side. (entrance on L Street NW). Indoor and outdoor seating. While this popular American restaurant changed hands shortly before the pandemic, new owner Jarrett Walsh and executive chef Nathan Johnson have only enhanced the window-wrapped dining destination in Frederick, Md. The kitchen treats people who dont eat meat like VIPs. The owners of the citys best Korean restaurant are also behind the popular, fast-casual Chiko. [Get your Maryland crab fix at the Point Crab House, along with ace service and a water view], Indeed, the Point is a crab lovers bonanza, where you can enjoy the main event as a dip, atop toast, steamed to order or mixed with mayonnaise, lemon juice and hot sauce and presented as a broiled cake. Four-course menu $95 per person; a la carte bar menu $28-$33. Voila!, for sure. I want it to feel like someones home, says owner Hollis Wells Silverman. Berbere, the Ethiopian spice blend that torches whatever it touches. Kinship makes it easy and safe to sup indoors, planting flowers on unoccupied tables as a way to keep diners socially distanced. Pizza! Indoor seating. Cheers to that. Wheelchair users can enter with the help of ramps and valets; ADA-compliant restroom. Everyone I take falls in love with the experience. Takeout and delivery. More allure comes by way of ivory dominoes of soft-crisp pork belly, fanned onto a plate shared with julienne radish kimchi, a pungent ssamjang (paste) made with walnuts, and spears of lightly pickled napa cabbage for wrapping the meat and condiments. And I cant imagine a Nepalese meal without momos. A staff snack whipped up from leftover oxtails proved so popular, it was redesigned for public consumption. Drinks show up quickly. Other delicious options include spicy steamed shrimp, fish and chips staged in a fry basket and tacos (pork or fish) distinguished by their two-ply cradles: a soft flour tortilla lined with a fried corn tortilla. As before, you should also know Three Blacksmiths still takes reservations about 200 days out and March 2022 is already spoken for. New to ugali? The chef is a discerning shopper. For his 14th Fall Dining Guide, Tom Sietsema selects his 40 favorite Washington D.C.-area restaurants, reflecting a much-changed dining scene with exciting new flavors. A perch at the convivial bar lets you watch the skilled mixers and shakers and glean the latest mating rituals. 2021 Fall Dining Guide | Tom Sietsema | October 6, 2021 | Washington Post Owner Louis Lassen improvised by giving him a patty of the restaurant's steak trimming s between two pieces of toast. Liquid Intelligence: The Art and Science of the Perfect Cocktail - Dave Arnold 2014-11-10 Winner of the 2015 James Beard Award for Best Beverage Book and the 2015 IACP Jane Grigson Award. Indoor dining only. Dinner daily, lunch Tuesday through Sunday, brunch weekends. Meet Andrs-Julian Zuluaga, an alumnus of the school of Fabio Trabocchi. By the looks of my dinner this summer, hes onto something. The Washington Post food critic's guide to the nation's top ten culinary capitalsplus restaurant . SIGN UP TODAY Learn More. Lunch Wednesday through Saturday, dinner Tuesday through Sunday, mercato open daily. Eaten throughout Kenya, it showcases bites of chargrilled beef or goat that have been marinated in a spice blend whose list of ingredients is as long as the Nile. collection is an invaluable, evocative guide to the ever-changing, slowly vanishing landscape of the city's great dining scene. Indoor and outdoor seating. No barriers to entry; ADA-compliant restroom. Culinary heroes Nobuyuki Nobu Matsuhisa and Jol Robuchon are celebrated in a sublime dish pairing the Japanese chefs silken fish in miso with the late French chefs crazy-rich whipped potatoes. A recent visit found us in the middle of what felt like a nightclub loud music, busy bartenders but still serving food thats very much the personal expression of its muse. Or duck confit, staged with tender little scallion pancakes and miso-poached pear. And yet, its always about the crust, says Linn. Indoor and outdoor seating. No takeout or delivery. A rethought version at Annabelle a whole baby chicken made great with citrus peels and warm spices is cause for applause, too, evinced by table mates reluctant to share. Tom Sietsema's 6 favorite places to eat in February Food critic Tom Sietsema's favorites in February include a world-class French restaurant, Greek food and an Italian kitchen that never fails.. The pastas are mostly rolled out right here; the specials shake up the routine. The dining room is airy and light-filled. In the world of Italian restaurants in Washington, Filomena is where you go for a show, Tosca is where you go to seal a deal, and Fiola is where you want to propose. Hes right. The weak link? Indoor and outdoor seating. Otherwise, regulars can count on finding pretty much everything that they have long appreciated about the Rockville stalwart: housemade bread served with black olive tapenade, rooms quieted by linens on the tables and tufted fabric on the walls, and cooking made consistent by the fact chef-owner Enzo Livia retained his loyal kitchen crew. Brandwein can also be dramatic, evinced by poached sablefish paired with black chickpeas, a monochromatic moment worthy of a frame. The majority of his food is touched by a hearth that serves as the focal point in the homespun dining room and gets as hot as 1,000 degree in its center. Upgrade to special, and the kitfo comes with collard greens and housemade cottage cheese. On the other hand, he feels hes bonded more with his colleagues since the pandemic set ego and hubris aside. Echoing others in the industry, Barreto says, We give so much to guests. No floppy crusts here. tosses pies that reach for perfection (and come close), Open for 53 years, Henrys Soul Cafe proves that comfort is always in demand, Italian restaurants can charm and soothe, even without their dining rooms, If you think fine dining is on pause, Imperfecto would beg to differ, Expect a warm welcome and dazzling dishes at Kinship in Shaw, An Ethiopian newcomer makes a spicy splash in Alexandria, women in restaurateur Peter Changs life, If family-style takeout is on the menu, these 3 restaurants have a whole lot to offer, Like a good neighbor, Pennyroyal Station is there for you, Get your Maryland crab fix at the Point Crab House, along with ace service and a water view, The Restaurant at Patowmack Farm, under a new chef, calls for a road trip. Aim for a counter stool and the chance to watch the staff shape rounds of dough on a surface of durum and maybe meet Valerie Harding. Indoor seating only. My father was from Yunan, the only place in China that makes cheese, says the chef, who then details how cheese was hung out on bamboo poles to dry, in the absence of refrigeration. 2021 Fall Dining Guide | Tom Sietsema | October 6, 2021 | Washington Post When it comes to climate security, Wellington, the capital of New Zealand, has the best plan of action. On Thursday, Tom Sietsema published his coveted Fall Dining Guide, which features 77 restaurants in the D.C. metro area. Ashok Bajaj is giving diners fresh reason to visit the oldest in his stable of 10 restaurants. A SHRIMP CREOLE RECIPE THAT'S FED GENERATIONS ON A COASTAL GEORGIA FARM MONICA BURTONMAY 13, 2021 EATER Cashion's fil-forward, roux-less gumbo had us scraping the bottom of the bowl. A shortage of staff meant a delay in seating guests in the dining room, which partially opened recently. Three Blacksmiths invites more to the table. The pandemic prompted this Italian charmer to take reservations for the first time in 31 years. Incheon can be quiet enough that Ahn himself introduces the seven or so dishes that make up his tasting menu. Every neighborhood should have an Elle. (Scott Suchman for The Washington Post). 136 Paramount Park Dr., Gaithersburg, Md. The tomato sauce a touch sweet, a little tangy comes from an old family recipe; the bacon is made in-house. Diners choose a centerpiece (chicken, lamb, goat, wild boar, potato-cauliflower curry), which is positioned on a long wooden board with a changing vegetable, buttery black lentils, baby spinach sauteed with ginger, garlic and cumin seeds, plus a bite of dessert. Indoor and outdoor seating. No restaurant can be all things to all diners, but I like how this one goes right for the hugs. Law-Yone asked the hotel kitchen staff to make a dish they would typically cook for themselves, nothing fussy. Guilty! Its from everywhere, says Walsh. Same for dominoes of roseate local beef accessorized with grilled broccoli, burned eggplant and a dollop of ketchup, brilliant with red pepper. Ramps near the entrance and roomy restrooms make the restaurant wheelchair-friendly. Dinner Tuesday through Sunday, brunch weekends. Open wide for oxtail birria starring beef-fat tortillas and a steaming teacup of reduced braising juices, a dunk like no other. Im a fool for golden nuggets of fried potatoes and juicy pork meatballs draped with tomato sauce, and fall-apart cod flanked with velvety red peppers. Indoor and outdoor seating. Reliability is a hallmark of the restaurants, where the shredded pork and mustard green soup is as delicious and restorative as I remember it back when Facebook was in its infancy, and the shaved dry bean curd, pungent with cilantro and crunchy with peanuts, remains a prized snack. VIEW MAP Our Restaurants Grid List Parking Pike & Rose offers three . No takeout or delivery. Albi now counts two, the newest of which is a glass-enclosed rear patio that can seat up to 25 revelers. Maple panna cotta with caramelized hazelnuts is the definition of sublime. It would be easy to fill up on pancakes alone; the scroll-like dosas, wrapped in both wax paper and foil and tucked into pizza boxes, are excellent. Ziti stuffed with ricotta comes with a topping of bacon-y steamed clams and garlic toast: clams casino as a garnish. Were she able to fill those positions, Seki says, she and her father, Hiroshi, the 32-seat taverns 74-year-old chef, could expand service to Sunday and offer longer hours. Whatever your preference short rib birria flavored by a complex mole, grilled fish brightened with avocado mousse reveals care and thought. Expect the snails to show up in a bubbling green carpet of herbs, Parmesan and butter, topped with a raft of thick toasted bread. Youre reminded youre in wine country with a list that reads like a bible yet has fun with the subject. Dinner daily, brunch weekends. Indeed, Johnsons list draws inspiration from around the world. Tom Sietsema has been The Washington Post's food critic since 2000. The paneed rabbit, a star on the opening menu, has been replaced by breaded skate wing, but rabbit is destined to flavor the fall gumbo. Takeout Tuesday through Sunday, no delivery. Lunch and dinner Wednesday through Sunday. 11.8k Followers, 313 Following, 122 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Tom Sietsema (@tomsietsema) A revolutionary approach to making better-looking, better-tasting drinks. Adler stands in front of the visible kitchen, inspecting plates as they go out: some of the best, and most photogenic, pesto-sauced pasta, veal cutlets and shrimp scampi in memory. Indoor and outdoor seating. Theres no more fetching kitchen in town than the open one at Albi Arabic for my heart surrounded by a mural of characters holding hands. Last winter, Blend 111 served meals in a parking lot turned Andean outpost. Owner Michael Biddick promises the return of the attractive heated space, along with one of my prized pandemic purchases from any restaurant: $12 blankets woven from cotton and recycled fibers. Diced fluke arranged with ribbons of compressed celery and matchsticks of green apple in a puddle of dashi adds up to the most revivifying crudo for miles. Dinner Tuesday through Saturday. Follow Tom Sietsema as he dines, drinks and browses at 271 restaurants, bars, and shops while reporting for his America's Best Food Cities project. And if the drinks taste true, credit goes to Dauphines spirits maven and co-creator Neal Bodenheimer, whose Cure bar in New Orleans helped fuel the countrys craft cocktail revolution. Seemingly a bushel of arugula shows up with a hailstorm of pistachios, goat cheese crumbles and juicy blackberries. Dressed with scarred walls, white brick and live plants, the space is home to servers who bring, say, a bowl of rice carpeted with folds of dewy salmon, pea shoots and pineapple puree bibimbap scattered with raw fish and aptly introduce the shimmering beauty as Instagram-worthy. When guests asked for more vegetarian options, Anju responded with dishes including wangmandu, big crisp dumplings fattened with Impossible Meat and finished with a racy chile crunch. A tangle of slippery lo mein noodles shows up slick with chile oil, crisp with fried shallots and colorful with red cabbage and chopped scallions. Takeout, no delivery. Regular customers are known to get extras messages even tucked into their bags; Marler compares them to notes in a kids lunchbox. Takeout and delivery. The appeal extends to the liquids and the hospitality: The $10 cocktails are improvements on throwbacks, and a spot on your shirt (hello, tomato sauce!) 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